On a stretch of Atlantic Avenue in a well-to-do part of Brooklyn, a number of Syrian and Yemeni restaurants and shops pepper the street. Next to a mammoth Urban Outfitters and across from a large grocery chain store is a little anomaly of a shop owned and run by Syrian-born Ghiath Mustapha and his brothers, Muyassar and Anas.
Entering into the shop there is an air of an old world market, with goods cramming every spare shelf, overflowing bins of fruits and nuts, and a whiff of cardamom, which they often grind with the coffee.
Ghiath Mustapha is usually the first brother to arrive, and spends his days baking the shop’s famous baklava for customers who snap it up. The shop caters lamb dishes and pastries for hotels and weddings as well.
Although the neighborhood has changed drastically since Mr. Mustapha and his brothers arrived from Syria in 1967, Mr. Mustapha is grateful that his shop has kept up its business, thanks in part to several loyal customers.